(Emulsifiers) Emulsifiers combine water and oil phases but, particularly in ethoxylated forms, can affect the skin barrier and increase permeability. Typical examples include Laureth-7, Ceteareth-20, Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-60 and Steareth-20. Instead, we use skin-identical, lamellar structures that integrate into the skin’s architecture.
(Preservatives) Preservative systems ensure stability but often come with trade-offs in skin tolerance. Common ingredients include Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzoic Acid and EDTA derivatives. Our approach focuses on minimal, precisely balanced systems designed to maintain both stability and skin integrity.
(Solvents) Solvents enhance the delivery of active ingredients but can influence the skin barrier. Examples include Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol and Propanediol. Their use is limited to what is functionally necessary, with a preference for skin-compatible alternatives.
(Microplastics / Synthetic Polymers) Synthetic polymers such as Acrylates Copolymer, Carbomer or Polyacrylamide are widely used for texture and stability. They are not readily biodegradable and may form a non-functional film on the skin. Such systems are deliberately excluded.
(Mineral Oils & Paraffin-Based Ingredients) Ingredients like Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum or Ceresin create an occlusive layer on the skin. While they reduce moisture loss temporarily, they do not actively support skin function. We instead use physiological lipids that work with the skin.
(PEG & Ethoxylated Ingredients) PEG derivatives, such as PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil or ingredients ending in -eth, may increase skin permeability and are associated with potential impurities from the ethoxylation process. These systems are not used in our formulations.
(Silicones) Silicones such as Dimethicone or Cyclopentasiloxane create an immediate smoothing effect without improving skin function. As occlusive film-formers, they are replaced by functional lipids.
(Synthetic Fragrances) Fragrance components are among the most common triggers of irritation. Examples include Limonene, Linalool and Geraniol. Only hypoallergenic fragrance systems are used, and only in minimal concentrations.
(Synthetic Colorants) Colorants, typically identified by CI numbers, provide no functional benefit to the skin and are not used in our formulations.
(Synthetic Film Formers & Gelling Agents) Ingredients such as Carbomer or Acrylates Copolymer are often used to optimize texture. They may form an artificial layer on the skin without contributing to skin function. We rely instead on structurally integrated systems.
(Synthetic Plasticizers) Plasticizers improve flexibility and stability but are partly discussed in relation to potential endocrine effects. Examples include Polymethyl Methacrylate and Adipic Acid derivatives. We avoid such systems.
(Surfactants) Harsh surfactants such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate can disrupt the skin barrier by removing essential lipids. Only mild, skin-compatible surfactants are used.
(UV Absorbers) Certain chemical UV absorbers, such as Benzophenone-4, are discussed in relation to skin tolerance and systemic exposure. These filters are not part of our formulations.
(UV Filters) Many modern UV filters are currently under scientific review, particularly regarding impurities and potential endocrine effects. Examples include Octocrylene, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, DHHB, BEMT and Avobenzone. DHHB is a widely used UVA filter, often positioned as an alternative to Octocrylene. However, literature indicates that contamination with Di-n-hexylphthalate may occur during manufacturing — a non-approved substance classified as potentially reprotoxic. In addition, nano-sized filters such as Zinc Oxide (Nano) are commonly used. Our approach combines stable, skin-compatible filter systems with mineral components and avoids controversially discussed filters and complex stabilization systems.